St. Patty's Day Trip -- Ireland 2008

ny hotel

2009-03-01T15:38:00.001-08:00

http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/03/01/travel/01check.html?em

Ireland CIE March 2008 Group

2008-04-05T09:12:00.000-07:00

Bye Bye

2008-04-03T22:25:00.000-07:00

Good Bye Party

2008-04-03T13:01:00.000-07:00

More pics

2008-04-03T12:06:00.000-07:00

MAKING YARN

2008-03-31T09:33:00.000-07:00

Leprechaun's Birthdays -- St Paddy's day no less

2008-03-29T23:43:00.000-07:00

Mary Ann's birthday at Kinsale breakfast, and the Blarney Castle

On St Paddy's Day, and she kissed the Blarney stone again!

Oscar Wilde, Molly Malone, and another rainy day in dublin

2008-03-29T23:34:00.000-07:00

Another afternoon in Dublin.

After our tour of Clonmacnoise, we returned to Dublin for Saturday's return flights for most of our tour group members. Paddy dropped us off for a few hours outside of Trinity College while he took the luggage to the hotel.

Everyone slipped off in different directions. Some to eat again, some went to the Trinity College to see the book of Kells. Others to get in last minute shopping. I opted for the "book" and headed for the library.

Since it was Good Friday, the line wasn't very long, and there was only a few minute wait for entry. Folr a holiday, it still was pretty active.

The book is an illuminated manuscript of the four gospels handmade in AD 800 for the Kells monastery. It had an interesting history, surviving many raids and looting expeditions perpetrated on the Monastery, before winding up in the custody of Trinity College for protection. It is considered one of the greatest treasures of Ireland, and would easily qualify as one of the great treasures of the world.

The exhibit consists of explanatory posters, and enlarged copies of various pages. There's a display on vellum making and hand bookbinding. The book itself is on display beneath glass, with four pages open for viewing. Studying the intricacy of the writing and illustrations are well worth the visit.

Since Molly Malone is just around the corner, I headed out to try to get better pictures, the first set from our first day were a bit rained out. Of course it had to rain. Out came the umbrella, but fortunately, the rain let up in about 10 minutes. Got the pictures, and hiked over to Oscar Wilde's house.

I can resist anything but temptation --Oscar Wilde

Dublin is the home of the home where Oscar Wilde grew up. The city has honored him by putting up a statue in his honor. It's an interesting lifelike statute made up of colored minerals. Superb job, you expect him to stand up.

The house is across the street from the park where his statue rests.

Ajb

Megalithic Forts

2008-03-29T23:30:00.000-07:00

Aran Island, County Galway

After a good breakfast we loaded into the bus and headed to Rossaveal west of Galway to catch the ferry to Aran Island. We went to the main of three islands, Aran and loaded into mini buses for the grand tour.

The island is 2 x 9 miles, and has 3000 miles of stone fences. Everything is made out of rock. Rock walls, rock houses, rock streets, you get the picture. Except for the houses and rock walls, the island is swept clean of anything more than a few inches tall by the strong north Atlantic storms.

The Celts have inhabited the island for thousands of years, and the locals still speak Gaelic (Celtic, or Irish, depending on whom you speak to) one of the last strongholds of the language. Aran is also famous for hand knitted sweaters, formerly made of unwashed wool for its water repellant properties. They wash it now, the smell was somewhat of a turnoff for tourists.

Megalithic Forts

The island has 4 Celtic stone forts, with a stunning triple-walled fort set at the top of a 300 foot vertical cliff. Wouldn't you know, it's made of rock. It's about a 20 minute walk up the hill, and when you get there, the view is spectacular. No guardrails, you can walk and sit on the cliff's edge. The fort is stacked rock, with no cement, it's all held together by the weight of the rocks.

The fort and scenery are fantastic, but the best was to describe it is windy and cold. It's hard to believe where the Irish have set up their castles and forts. It's spring now, and it's still cold enough to freeze rocks. After climbing the hill, you're a little warm, but that feeling goes away real quickly. The wind almost lifts you, and you've got to be careful or you'll go over the side. And you wouldn't come up.

After our tour, we headed back to the harbor for a wait for the ferry. In the pub, of course.

Ajb

Clonmacnoise

2008-03-29T23:18:00.000-07:00

Clonmacnoise

"Please note that this is a very busy site and visitors may experience a delay during the summer months." Guidebook

Since this isn't summer and the wind was blowing off the river Shannon at about 25 knots at 35 degF, crowds were expectantly sparse. And despite all the things that one could see here, the gusting winds lifting you off the ground discouraged extensive exploration.

The site has a long history, having been founded in the 6th Century. It was constantly overrun and sacked by just about everyone including the Vikings, its occupants killed, and its buildings destroyed many times. Because of its location at a junction of the Shannon and trade routes, it eventually became a fort as well as a monastery and was actually stable for a while, until its eventual abandonment around 1100 AD.

It has two wrecked cathedrals -- not the kind that immediately comes to mind, but medium sized stone buildings. Very little fancy stone work, this isn't the Vatican by any stretch of the imagination.

In addition there are several small churches that look suspiciously like small stone buildings, and two fine examples of Irish round towers.

A main source of fame is the fact that the site contains 3 stone "high crosses", some of the few that are still in existence. They are intricately carved, and are of historical and artistic significance -- information that is too complex to get into here.

This Irish weather is something. There had to have been some pretty important reasons to even attempt to live here with nothing but burning peat to keep one warm in the winter. We've been fortunate that we've had alternating good and rainy days. All rain would have been too much.

Other pictures of Fun Stuff

2008-03-19T16:03:00.001-07:00

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Cliffs of Moher

2008-03-19T15:58:00.001-07:00

Cliffs, you can fall off. Not like in the good ole days.

Signs, signs, signs

No climbing, no falling, no walking on the grass.

How are we supposed to have any fun?

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Rainy day and Guinness

2008-03-19T15:54:00.001-07:00

Rainy day in Dublin.

After an overnight flight that got us to Dublin faire city, where etc., at around 6 am, we checked through Euro immigration and had the usual bag wait. Augie, in the front of the plane, zipped though la migra #2 in line, but wound up waiting to the last for his suitcase.

After a couple hour's wait for other arrivals, we headed into town in the dreary rainy morning. It cleared up a bit by 10 am, and we began a self guided walking tour of olde Dublin.

Around the corner and down the Grande Canal, which is Starbucks talk for a small, and a turn down the Georgian district. Nearly identical row houses, quit neat and tidy, with the only distinguishing feature being the single door. Each had its unique character and color, a revolt of the Irish spirit.

Low and behold, we come across the house that Oscar Wilde grew up in, with a statute of the great writer made of colored rock across the street. Snazzy.

On we go, with the skies darkening, past Trinity College, the oldest U in the island. We come across sweet Molly Malone, wheeling her barrow through streets wide and narrow. Frozen in time though, the cockles and mussels are far from alive, alive o,. Getting bronzed will do that to you. Round and about we trudge, through streets wide and narrow, with taxis, and buses, annoying, annoying, o'.

The skies begin to release their load, and we regret leaving our umbrellas neatly stashed in our suitcases. Passing a statue we can't figure out (turns out to be Michael Collins - see history of Ireland, part 987), we spy a beacon of hope, a good Scottish resting place, McDonalds. A tasty hot chocolate later, we begin the run back to the hotel not quite soaked, but definitely wet.

The rain continues and begins to get worse. We wait. We begin our "city tour." Into a bus -- this one with springs, shock absorbers, muffler, and no statue of Kali threatening us with eternal damnation. It's brand new, first trip, with all the cushy stuff. Even CC TV to watch the road and side of the bus Why? Who knows, who cares? Watching the road rushing up to you on TV is definitely a stomach churning experience.

Back to the Georgian district, this time in the comfort of a cushioned seat and covered head, and windows with so much rain hitting them, you can barely see out. Same agenda, same sites.

A quick pass through Dublin Castle and its state apartments. Mo and Augie interrupted in the middle of the tour by being yanked out to pay for a taxi ride by Gina and Lily, whose plane arrived late and missed the transfer. Running outside to the street in the rain, discovering no one knew where the taxi was. After 5 minutes of soaking, back to the Castle. There sits a taxi unloading G and L, and luggage, with G paying the cab.

Off to the bus with luggage in tow, and on the street again. We approach a complex that looks like a cross between the Death Star and an Eighteen-thirties workhouse. You were expecting to see begging cripples and urchins stealing a Christmas goose.

But it's only the Guinness Storehouse, a cross between an Eighteen-thirties workhouse and a museum. It's hard to describe in less than a book how important Guinness is to Ireland. The country might just disappear if the Guinness brewery shut down. Short version, it's really, really a big deal.

Now keep in mind that we're in a 3 day national drinking weekend. The Irish can party. There's the preparation for the pre St Patty's day party, the pre St Patty's day party, and the St Patty's day party. Then as some of our group discovered, there's the post St Patty's day party.

A new trend in Europe, and apparently just this year at Guinness, is the group tour access that lets groups enter with minimal wait. Good thing, as the line wrapped around the block in the pouring rain, with all waiting for a glass of beer. A quick entrance, grab a ticket from the tour guide, and off to the 7th floor.

Stunning views of rain clouds! The room was full, elbow to elbow, with young people, all sucking on giant glasses of Guinness Stout. Most of our group bellied up to the bar, and joined the throng. Since you could just barely see the city, you might as well start your pre St Patty's day party.

Lily, not being of drinking age (even here it's 18) and I headed down the 7 floors to browse through the museum. The history is interesting, and the quantities of beer produced are staggering. The ads are enlightening.

Finally meeting all at the door, and heading out into the rain for the bus again. We walked past a string of horse carriages, but judging from the rain and giant piles of poops, they didn't have much business that day.

Back to the hotel for rest and preparation for the evenings meal.

ajb

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Rock Fairies

2008-03-19T15:50:00.000-07:00

Blarney Castle and the Rock Faries

Kiss My Blarney Stone

2008-03-19T15:49:00.001-07:00

Blarney and the stone

It's not every day that one gets to go to a place that has entered the language, and the hearts and minds of all Irish wanna bes.

After a walking tour of Kinsale, we headed to the one place in Ireland everyone in the world knows of.

As castles go, it's middle of the road. It's small, its ruined, its cool. It overlooks the area from a small hill, and has a parklike area surrounding it. It's winter so much of the park is closed. It's what you've always imagined Ireland to be.

Since we all wanted the gift of Blarney, we scooted up the hill, into the castle, and up a narrow stairwell set in the castle walls. 130 +/- steps up and you stand on the ramparts, overlooking a wide view of Irish green. Since we moved with alacrity, there was only a short line.

Kissing the Blarney stone is a somewhat silly contorted operation, and requires a bit of help. After kissing it, you immediately begin to feel Blarney, coming up with elaborate explanations for all who will listen why you made such a goof of yourself by hanging upside down from a castle roof to kiss a dumb rock.

It really works! Yap, yap, yap. Back down the stairs, this time taking the time to view the sights, mostly empty rooms with signs explaining their former use. But it is a cool castle, and I mean cold. With the sky overcast, and the winds howling, it was cold enough to freeze your lips off. Even burning wood in the fireplaces, it's hard to imagine how cold the place must have been.

Stumbling around the grounds looking for faires and leprechauns for a while, we ended our quest and ran off to the lunch area where many of the group had a --- Guinness. It is after all a pub and folk tour.

ajb

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Day 3

2008-03-18T11:50:00.001-07:00

Day Three:
A beautiful morning in Kinsale with our guide Paddy. Good weather at the Trident Hotel on the harbor was fortunate for a city walking tour.

Early morning rise to birthday wishes. We had a full Irish breakfast including cards, gifts, and well wishes. After being fully outfitted in a huge Irish hat, green boa, green beads, and a sipping cup, of course I was wished good luck and birthday wishes all day.
We went on a walking tour of the harbor area, city center, and learned all about the history of this seaside port. Our guide Don Herlihy was a wealth of information.

All again boarded the bus to nurture hangovers, or view the scenery on the way to Blarney Castle. All hearty passengers climbed the 126 steps to the top of the castle to kiss the blarney stone. The narrow passage way would have kept a few from scaling the castle....but those that made it were much more eloquent with their birthday wishes into the night. We had a hearty lunch at Christies next to the Woolen Mills where we all made many purchases. Another short ride to Killarney and the Arbutus Hotel that welcomed us with High Tea, scones, clotted cream, and fresh baked breads.

Rest up, shower, and prepare for St. Pat's Day parade, Guinness and walk about town. Back to dinner, a party with cake (Spider Man Cake), and drinks and music in the local pubs. Murphy's Pub won the James Joyce Award for most authentic Irish pub. I believe that means they have the best food, liquor, and scenery. We were supposed to meet Mo, Lily, and Robyn but they ditched us.

By Mary Ann Mari

Day 2

2008-03-18T11:44:00.001-07:00

Day 2 -
We were up by 7:15 and had a breakfast buffet. We started driving toward the Rock of Cachel. It was a beautiful drive all though most of us were sleeping. We got to the Cachel and the town was small but so cute, it's so old too. The Rock of Cashel had a lot of graves-- sad but beautiful.

We rode to the second hotel called Trident Hotel. It was better than the first hotel in my opinion. At about 6pm we went to dinner at a restaurant called Pier One. Then at 8pm we took a walk to a pub called The Tap Tavern. We took a ghost tour but there were no ghosts.

Then we took a walk on the wild side. All the grownups,(everyone but Augie and I) got drunk at the local pubs. Or, as they say in Kinsale, "Had a craic". Then by 1am everyone was back at the hotel sound asleep. Well, not everyone. Some continued partying until 4 am. It is St Patty's Day after all.
Written by:Lily Freeman

2008-03-18T11:36:00.001-07:00

Airline Hijinks

Those of you fortunate enough not to be travelling by air lately should pay close attention to the latest woes of these poor travelers.

The trip to the Land O' Green was planned some time ago, and tickets on our friendly local air carrier (name withheld to protect the guilty, but rhymes with belta ) were dutifully purchased. Plans were carefully made, schedules checked, and bags were packed. In this modern age, one can actually get seat assignments from the comfort of one's home, and print them out wasting your own ink instead of the airlines. Even international! This of course is ho-hum to many of you, but for the novices -- pay close attention.

Entering the secret and arcane web portal, we applied the magic words to acquire our coveted seat assignments and boarding passes. Boing. Boing. Out they come. Oops, there seems to be a problem. One of the flights is different than the one we booked. And it is conveniently scheduled to arrive at JFK 2 hours after our flight to Dublin leaves without us.

Humm. Click, click. Can't figure this one out. Oh well, that's what 800 numbers are for. Hello? Please press 1 for ... 2.. press. 99 to repeat 1 through 98.., press, wait ...... Your call is important to us so just wait, we'll get to you when we feel like it.

Wazzup?
We seem to have a problem with our tickets that we were so careful to book so carefully.
Oh, there's no problem, we cancelled that flight and rebooked you.
But you rebooked us so we would miss our international flight, and by the way no one told us the flight was cancelled.
Oh, you would have found out when you got to the airport.
You mean the one where our plane left without us?
Well .... Yes.

Needless to say, no -- to say, we were now scrambling to find a plane that could get us from the tiny 10 flight Pensacola airport to JFK tomorrow morning with all the flights full. Eventually a route through Disneyland Orlando was found that got us to JFK in time to catch our Dublin flight. Unfortunately, the previously made cancellation removed us from the Dublin flight since we would arrive too late to catch it, and why waste those seats. We then received what is know euphemistically as a seat request. For the uninitiated, this is a useless piece of paper that looks enough like a boarding pass to get you past TSA, but means you don't have a seat.l

On arrival at JFK (p.s. Avoid Orlando like the plague if you can't stand kids, and if you do, their mouse ears, glazed eyes and drooling will permanently cure you of that) by luck of the draw, Mo got a seat, next to Robyn no less, and Augie got to keep his seat request.

Boarding time, no seat for Augie. Finally a supervisor appears and in despairation, assigns one of the last seats, and you'd think it was his from the way he was acting. But it turns out that it is in the coveted ZONE ONE, and Augie boards ahead of everyone else. Sooo... You'd think this was a happy ending, it was sort of, but it was minutes from total airline purgatory.

Lesson to learn, as the military says -- don't trust the airlines, and do confirm your ticket and seat a couple of days in advance.

Pictures

2008-03-16T16:58:00.001-07:00

Pictures

2008-03-16T16:57:00.001-07:00

Pictures

2008-03-16T16:55:00.001-07:00

Pictures

2008-03-16T16:54:00.001-07:00

Pictures

2008-03-16T16:53:00.001-07:00

Pictures

2008-03-16T16:52:00.001-07:00

Pictures

2008-03-16T16:50:00.001-07:00

Dublin's fair city

2008-03-16T16:48:00.001-07:00

Day 1 - Dublin

2008-03-16T10:47:00.000-07:00

Most of us all arrived on the same flight from JFK at 6 AM. Gina and Lily, after traveling one and a half days from Maui, had a three hour delay on their hop from London to Dublin. Since we had their travel docs, we did not know if they knew which hotel we were in or even what the name of the tour company was. When CIE went to pick them up at their original pick up time, they weren't there. Luckily, Lily remembered that CIE was the company and there was a kiosk at the airport. The rest of us had already left for our afternoon tour, so the cab driver brought them to join us at the Dublin Castle. When they arrived, Gina didn't have any Euros to pay him, so she ran into the castle to find Augie, while the meter kept ticking away.

Whew! Finally, we're all together. After touring the castle, it was off to the Guiness brewery to toss back a pint. Unfortunately, we didn't have much time there (well, there was enough time for Ryan and Gina to have a second pint) and we were whisked back to the hotel to get ready for dinner at the Abbey Tavern. This is usually the event scheduled for the last night of this tour, but the last night we are in Dublin is Good Friday, and all the pubs are closed.

The food was great, most of us had corned beef and cabbage, the beer was tasty, and the entertainment was lively. But most of us were passing out in our beer before the night was over. It's been a long day, but a good one. Back to the hotel to get a good night's sleep before our journey to Kinsale.

Soon to be St. Patty's Day In Ireland

2008-03-11T08:12:00.000-07:00

We're heading off to the Land O' Green on Friday to find the Leprechaun's Pot O' Gold at the end of the Rainbow, to celebrate Mary Ann's Big 6-0, on St. Paddy's Day no less.